How
To Cover Your Model With Tissue
Note: These pictures will show you how to go about covering your model---ANY
model. Always remember that flat areas can be covered with one piece of
tissue. Places which are curved will have to be covered with two, three
or more pieces. If you try to cover a curved area with one piece you will
have a wrinkled looking mess.Pull it up tight as you stick it down---four
or five inches at a timer--it' got to have a smooth look. Later,
when you shrink it, it will have a stretched smooth look--after
doping it will have the drum tight look. We think you can do a
beautiful job!
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| 1.
The tissue Covering shrinks as it dries until the whole surface
gets a stretched smooth look. Now it's ready for its protective coating
of dope Brush on one coat of clear dope and let dry - Add one or two more
coats later. This will give the tissue a finished look and will make it
easier to handle. Smaller models have a weaker framework which will warp
if the dope is too thick or too strong. Be sure the dope you use is o.k.
for the job. |
2.
Coat the wing, fuselage, stabilizer and rudder frame. Work with
one coat of clear dope. Because the balsa wood will soak it up the liquid
so quickly, this first coat will help fill the pores of the wood. Then it
won't dry up too fast while you are attaching the tissue |
3. Before
you start covering - put on the paper cowling if your model has one. (Unless
it a nose or windshield cowling to be put on later) Dope a piece of tissue
over the cowling on the plan - the same color the fuselage will be in this
case, when it's dry, cut the cowling out and glue it neatly where it belongs.
The paper cowling must go on first so that you can cover around it. |
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| 4. If
your airplane needs celluloid for windows, you should put this on also before
you start covering. First, cut the windows to the size shown on the plan--have
them ready. Use a "bead" or thin line of cement along the center of the
strips where the windows go. When you put on the celluloid, the cement will
spread a little and the window will be glued neatly to the framework. Remember,
if you use too much glue, you're going to slobber up the windows. |
5.
Attach the tissue around the windows first. Use a big piece
as you see it in the picture above, and always shiny side up. Brush
a "bead" of dope over the strips where you glued the celluloid. Now put
the tissue over the windows and smoothen it out with your finger- It should
dry in a minute or two. Cut out the tissue over the windows as shown. The
ligfht coming through the celluloid will show you where to run the razor
blade. |
6.
Lift off the tissue over the windows. Now the window strips
will show as they should--as window frames like the real airplane. Brush
on a coat of dope to be sure they will be on to stay. If you should cloud
up the celluloid with dope, a thinner soaked piece of kleenex will make
it clear again--don't over do it or you may soften the celluloid. |
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| 7.Cover
the flat area from the windows back. Brush dope on the framework as shown.
If you don't stretch it or pull it smooth it will have wrinkles after it
has been shrunk (see picture 18). The dope should dry in a minute or two,
sticking the tissue nicely. You can cover more than four or five inches
at a time if you can stay ahead of the fast drying dope. |
8. Sometimes,
if your fuselage has a little curve or bend, you can cover it with the same
bigger piece ofd tissue (shiny side up) by slitting it as shown. Slitting
it this way is like using a separate piece to keep from getting wrinkles.
Make the slit by running the razor blade right in the middle of the wood
strip. If you can't stick the tissue down smooth because of wrinkles, then
you'd better use a separate piece altogether. |
9. To
cover a curved or round part, attach the tissue one or two little sections
at a time--most always you will do a better job with one little section
as shown. Brush the dope on the wood strips carefully. Try not to get any
dope on the bare tissue until it is shrunk. Stretch it smooth over the opening. |
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| 10.
Trim the edges of the section by running the razor blade over
the middle of the strips---try not to miss. (Of course, you can trim the
tissue before you put it on, but it's easier to stretch smooth thie way.)
Pull the trimmed edges before the dope is fullyt dry and they will come
off nice and clean. If they stick, loosen them with dope. Be sure each section
is dry before going on to the next one. |
11. Cover
the remaining open areas but be sure to keep the openings for the wing and
stabilizer uncovered. These openings will have the wing and tail glued over
them so there isn't any reason for covering them. Trim the edges right along
the longerons or corner strips as shown. If you trim the piece to size before
you attach it, you'll soon find it hard to do. So, always do the trimming
right on the model--this is the correct way. |
12.
Cover the top center section of the wing to
start, unless your model is a low wing (remember to keep the shiny side
up.) In some cases the center section is left uncovered because it's going
to be glued there--or there may not be any center section. Whatever the
case, always start at the center and work toward the wing tip. Cover about
four or five inches at a time and be sure to stretch the tissue smooth.
Don't stick it to the ribs.
(Continued on Next Page) |
